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[align=right][[i] 本帖最后由 Sai DYSN 于 2008-2-1 00:24 编辑 [/i]][/align]

[color=darkred][b]顶级时装品牌ChristianDior 2007年7月2日在巴黎凡尔赛宫具有300年历史的橘园举行了一场群星闪耀的盛大派对,纪念Dior60周年,拉开了2007巴黎时装周的帷幕.!{6W%p%lCg_

nuDY D@ 出生于西班牙Gibraltar的英国设计鬼才JohnGalliano接棒Dior迈入堂堂十周年后,创新的风格与经典Dior形象混合,演绎出专署Dior的华丽百变.Galliano的新设计从达-芬奇伦勃朗 雷诺阿 莫奈戈雅和毕加索等大师的画作中汲取灵感,设计富丽典雅,色彩运用非常大胆.由巴西模特吉塞尔-邦辰担纲演绎,纳奥米-坎贝尔、琳达-埃万杰利斯塔等过去的超级名模也参加了表演.众佳丽厚施铅粉,面目雪白,仿佛诸多名画中的人物再世.以致怀ChristianDior和致敬西班牙的名义,30分钟的开场秀贏得千余名流和嘉宾起立鼓掌喝彩.John Galliano更为这场演出取名:高级成衣的黄金时代.
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7月2日的夜晚,法兰西的凡尔赛宫里灯火通明,正在上演的是一场如诗篇般浪漫而精致的服装发布,Linda、Naomi、Amber、Shalom和Gisele,T台上一张张重量级的名模脸孔足以让我们感受到这场发布会的份量.也只有 Dior60周年纪念 如此盛大的主题才能聚拢如此顶级的队伍了吧.这一次,John Galliano用华丽高贵的高级定制服系列为Dior60岁生日献上了一场瑰美的大礼,他从20世纪上半叶的一些画作、时装插画、和摄影作品中获得这一季的创作灵感,而在这些唯美的服装背后,又隐约透出些许挽歌式的庄重气氛,原来,Galliano也要用这一场秀向两位将自己全部生命奉献给时装界,却早早离开人世的人物——ChristianDior先生和今年4月在这场show准备期间突然辞世的设计师Steven Robinson(这个是JG的男友)致敬.
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开场便是浓浓的记忆味道,Galliano带我们回溯到1947年的NewLook革命,蜂腰、大圆裙摆,极致的阔型是二战后女性服装剪裁里程碑式的改变.设计师用艺术化的笔调将Dior天才般的想象力延续,黑色的套装在紧收纤腰后在胯部陡然蓬开夸张的弧度,象牙白色的裙装腰段以上是飞翼般耸起的夸张肩线……之后也是一系列黑白色系的服装,光影的流动让人想起摄影大师IrvingPenn的作品和插画家Eric、Gruau、Bouche、Bérard和Cocteau略显随性的手绘画作,完美演绎出摄影中黑白的戏剧效果以及即兴线条感的精华.
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随着show的演进,色彩也逐渐丰富起来,从略嫌苍白的粉色到鲜艳的紫红、冰蓝、鲜橘和孔雀兰,Galliano通过缎面蓬裙和紧身胸衣马甲的丰富层次来完成不同色彩的渐变和过渡,或是鲜美的手工制立体花朵,也成为衣摆上生动的点缀.色彩在Galliano的手中成为玩味的元素,从印象派的写意而柔和的光感,到荷兰派结合了现实主题和象征意义的巴洛克艺术风格,到前拉斐尔派强烈的构图和精彩的色彩质感,再到西班牙画派的浪漫神髓,他在时装铺展开的画布上挥洒得游刃有余.
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除了鲜明的Dior印记,对了解Galliano西班牙背景的人来说,不难发现这一季设计中暗藏的个人风格,这一点从整场发布会弥漫的佛朗明哥音乐可见一斑,所以,这也是他创作精神上的回归.当他身着斗牛士服和粉红色长袜充满斗志地终场亮相时,一贯的作怪腔调背后,也流露出他作为设计师感性的一面.(O0} E+n!k
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迪奥60周年其实是从举世闻名的“New Look”形象创立之时算起的.1947年二次世界大战之后,ChristianDior在处女秀上发布了NewLook系列,因为大胆凸显女性曲线,强调丰乳细腰肥臀,使得这一强烈的充满女性魅力的身体廓形,毫无保留地展现在世人面前.这场颇为大胆和夸张的“时装革命”据说让当时的保守人士颇为诟病,却给大众时尚注入了令人鼓舞的新鲜血液,巨大的影响力延续至今,ChristianDior将裙子提高到离地40厘米,创造的“H-Line”、“A-Line”、“Y-Line”剪裁轮廓线条,仍深深影响着当代设计师的思维方式.1l,m&R@7_0p+tbX
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Hedi走后，DIOR HOMME已不再是DIOR HOMME了~(jI'|SE;prU
连蜜蜂都变成了蝴蝶`:sweat:

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发点男的呗。。。咱也学习学习~+F2E%fO0M
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Christian Dior早期香氛瓶
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6`)Ap)m_3[ Dior 经典60年：New Look形象  成为Dior招牌的NEW LOOK沙漏裙

[color=DarkGreen]Christian Dior历任首席设计师
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5f(~IC1O;g1@f 工作时候的Christian Dior^1Pc*V_!t

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1957年-1960年，第二任首席设计师Yves Saint Laurent掌持Dior -@uP,f q7{u5s

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1960年-1989年，执政Dior的是第三任首席设计师Marc Bohan
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Dior现任首席设计师John Galliano是第五任
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O6wc(YxZ Dior去世之后,多位接手的设计师继承衣钵,尤其是英国怪才John Galliano入主之后,更是引领Dior成为全球时尚界的瞩目焦点.他的风格天马行空,激情四溢,每每通过秀场“作秀”,夸张的舞台效果,使得他的发布会总是浓墨重彩,富丽堂皇.到这个份儿上,你可以不欣赏他设计的服装,但是你不得不佩服他玩转舞台的本领.
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sZ!?kd:B(Y!M 当然,加里亚诺这样的人才必须是敬业的,他不断地在旅行,今年在重新设计著名作品Saddle Bag(马鞍包)时,他以各个国家为主题,推出一条限量版马鞍包系列.他说, Saddle Bag代表了新的Dior,新的精神.真不敢相信我曾踏足那么多地方,走访了那么多国家.因此,我决定为过去十年的每个月份也创作一款设计,以及为我们曾经到访并汲取灵感塑造Dior新形象的每个国家,设计一款Saddle Bag.估摸一下,Dior的马鞍包要推出120个以上的版本,这可为列入时尚史的一大经典吧.

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Dior Homme Prêt-à-porter
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